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32-33 MARKET PLACE
The CROSS KEYS INN/HOTEL
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Ys man kepeth yn ye Market Gat strete yclepte ye Crosse Keyes wel nygh toe ye Towne Halle --- an hath a bygge payre o Keyes owre ye Doorwaie putte yn ye Forme offe a X an depeytntid Yalloe. Butte ys spotte bee naghte nygh soe Roomie anowe as itte wase somme yeere backe --- ffor wheyn I wase a Younker itte Basenid ase farre ase ye Hawlke o Skul an Crosse Bones Layne
Jonas Yovld 1660
It would be delightful to think that the above script was authentic, as it might have provided a very early reference to the Cross Keys Inn. UNFORTUNATELY , it originates from the JOHNSON MANUSCRIPTS 1640-1858, as they appear in HULL CELEBRITIES published by William Anderson Gunnell in 1875. It was discovered shortly after publication that the manuscripts were mischievously fictitious, and as such they should never be used for serious research. It is amazing that even today some people are still taken in by them. It is necessary to emphasise, and to constantly remind people of the pitfalls and traps this diabolical fake can lead people into, and sadly, still does.
The quote from the Johnson Mss. does raise one question which is, what was the inspiration for the reference to the Cross Keys? It appears that the answer probably lies with numismatics, more precisely, coinage and tokens produced locally in the second half of the 17th century necessitated by the shortage of copper which resulted from the Civil War. One such token dated 1666, is attributed to and bears the name of JONAS YOVLE and which includes the symbol of two keys crossed.
Hull Coinage, C. E. Fewster
There is in the City Records Office a document at REF: D 869 dated 24th of June 1661, being the Counterpart of Lease for a messuage and garth in Market Place, from Henrie Maister merchant and Thomas Best apothecary, church wardens of the Trinitie Church to Jonas Youle a cutler. This quite clearly places Jonas Yovle (clearly the V is the Latinised version if the letter U) in the right place at the right time, but at this date the man was obviously not an innkeeper. The Johnson Mss. definitely names the man as YOVLD (spelt with a D rather than an E at the end of his name) and this prompted a debate between the late 19th century local antiquarians. The debate was fired by an inquiry in the Eastern Morning News from Alderman John Symons on the 10th of December 1880, when he described a token he had been shown bearing the name of Jonas Yould, saying that it fitted the description of the token as per Johnson, and what was the possibility of that attribution being correct. A reply was forthcoming the following day, in the same paper from C. E. Fewster who stated:-
I have several specimens of a token issued by Jonas Yovle (YOVLE) in 1666, who kept the Cross Keys in the Market Place, and this is one of the most commonly met with of the Hull seventeenth century tokens. In the “Hull Celebrities” which was published in the year 1876, the name of the issuer of the afore-mentioned token is given as Yovld (YOVLD), which is the name, as it occurs in Boyne’s work [TOKENS issued in the SEVENTEENTH, EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES IN YORKSHIRE] on the seventeenth century tokens which was published in the year 1858, antecedent to that of the “Hull Celebrities”. Now it always seemed strange to me that the error which occurred in Boyne’s should be perpetuated in a later work - as error it was, as the token in the possession of Mr. Boyne is now in my cabinet, and reads YOVLE (Yovle) . . . . . . . .
Fewster is clearly casting doubt on the authenticity of the Johnson Mss. as well as the veracity of the token described by Symons, and it must be said with devastating skill. On the 27th of December 1880, the Eastern Morning News carried a letter from James Sykes who proceeded to add the benefit of his knowledge on the subject with more bluntness:-
Referring to Councillor Fewster’s letter in this morning’s issue of your paper respecting the above token, Mr. Fewster is quite correct in the name of Jonas Yovle.
I have had several specimens in my possession, all exactly spelt the same. I have never seen or heard of one with Yovld. If the one Mr. Alderman Symons alludes to is so spelt (which I doubt) it would evidently be a forgery . . . . . .
From all this it is clear that the author of the Johnson Mss. had used the erroneous entry in Boyne to fabricate a web of fiction, but even now this can sometimes be difficult to detect. Wildridge, whist cataloguing the same tokens in his work HULL ANCIENT AND MODERN [page 309] and acknowledging the correct spelling of Yovle’s name, still insists, without any proof or evidence other than that in Johnson, that Yovle was the keeper of the Cross Keys Inn. There is an anomaly with the dates too, the quoted passage from Johnson is dated 1660 and suggests that Yovld had been at the inn for some time. D 869 is dated June 1661, and is the document whereby Jonas Yovle leases the property, and although there is only a single year’s difference, it is a very vital one as it proves beyond doubt that Yovle was not at the property when Johnson insists that he was. This still leaves us with the authenticated token bearing the crossed keys, the date 1666 and the name of Jonas Yovle. Was he an innkeeper at the house? A will deposited with the Borthwick Institute in York dated 30th June 1670 made by Jonas YOULE (with a U) describes him as an inn-holder of Kingston upon Hull. The name of the inn is not mentioned. The main beneficiary of his estate was his wife Anne. If the Cross keys was occupied by Youle in the 1660’s, then his death at the turn of the decade allowed his widow to remarry, this time to Mr. Joseph Towerson. In document REF: M 748 (28) in the City Records Office, Joseph Towerson is one of the inn-holders listed who defined the role of innkeepers in the town, it is dated 1672, the same year he married Ann Youle. It might be then that Towerson operated the inn under his wife’s auspices.
The archaeological excavation of 1994 which spanned much of the site of the Cross Keys (and the Tyger, and the later Marrowbone and Cleaver licensed houses) showed quite clearly that the inn was built over the remnants of the church and ranges of the Black Friars and the inn therefore could not have existed prior to the church’s destruction in the 1530’s. Artefacts were unearthed such as Bellarmine jars and many fragments of clay pipe bowls and stems dating from the 17th century which indicate the presence of some form of hostelry in the very close vicinity.
Original photo by the author is seemingly lost, so this replacement image has been borrowed from http://www.theinterestingshop.com/pages/ancientpottery.htm
Several stories about the discovery of human remains were also explained by the archaeology with the discovery of over 200 Christian graves in and around the friary church. The fact that the site of the Cross Keys spanned the walls of the friary church also preclude it from having been the hostelry of the Friary, and it is unfortunate that the City Records Office holds nothing which might help resolve the age of this inn. Tickell’s HISTORY OF HULL (1796) contains one of the earliest references to the Cross Keys Inn, which is a description of the ceremonies surrounding the laying of the foundation stone of the Dock in October 1775:-
“ For the improvement of commerce by the enlargement of the port of Kingston upon Hull, his most gracious majesty king George the third, did, with the consent of his parliament, appropriate the military works around the town, with a further aid of royal and parliamentary munificence. In the gratitude to their gracious sovereign, and to transmit a dutiful remembrance thereof to the latest prosperity, the Dock Company have caused this to be inscribed on the first stone, which was laid by Joseph Outram. Esq. Mayor, October 19th, 1775.
That day was ushered in with the ringing of bells. The Company’s commissioners, and their four principal officers, met at the dock office at twelve o’clock, and proceeded from thence with colours flying to the Mayor’s house, where being elegantly regaled with cake, wine, &c. they proceeded from thence with the Mayor, preceded by a large band of music, constables and flags, to the lock-pit, where his worship laid the first stone, in the presence, and with the loud acclamations of some thousands of people. The Mayor then gave the workmen 15 guineas to drink, five on his own account, and ten on account of the Company, after which there was a discharge of nine cannon, placed at the entrance of the lock, and then the procession proceeded to Mr. Baker’s, the Cross Keys, in the Market Place, where an elegant dinner was provided. After dinner the health’s of the king, queen and the royal family, with many other loyal and constitutional toasts were drank, and the whole was concluded with the greatest unanimity and good order.”
A notice of bankruptcy contained in the York Courant of the 10th of February 1778, states that the creditors had to meet at Mrs. Baker’s, the Cross Keys. The first references in the Hull Advertiser (1796), list William Baker as the inn-holder. There is obviously a family connection between the two, but whether William was the son or brother-in-law is not clear.
An illustration of the Market Place (looking north) was made by Thomas Malton the Younger which is attributed to 1780 according to THE STORY OF HULL by John Markham, clearly shows the Cross Keys Inn on the right hand side of the image. The inn occupies much of the same site as that of later years other than the southern wing. The main difference though is that the house is of three floors rather than four. The two bow windows of the later northern portion are visible as too is the large bay window over the main entrance arch. The inn sign of the crossed keys with a crown in chief can be seen over the large bay window. It is impossible to say whether the inn at this time actually extended into the northern wing, the ground floor is certainly occupied with retail outlets of some kind, and the premises immediately to the south of the arch (two floors) is occupied by a shop over the door of which is the name “WITTY”.
In 1788, the town saw great celebrations to commemorate the centenary of the “Glorious Revolution” when “King Billy” (William of Orange, William III) mounted the throne of the kingdom. Once again Tickell described the scene:-
At one o’clock the principal inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, who had previously assembled at the Cross Keys Inn, in the Market Place, preceded by Colonel Maister, their chairman, (whose ancestors represented this town in parliament soon after the revolution) and also by their deputy chairman, and the stewards appointed for conducting the jubilee entertainment, with wands in their hands, decorated with orange coloured ribbons, &c. went in procession from thence to the church of the Holy Trinity, with drums, fifes, and other martial music; and after divine service, paraded through several parts of the town. On coming to the statue, where the military were ready drawn up to receive them, they proceeded three times round it, and, on offering up their libations, were saluted with three vollies; which they answered by as many huzzas, and then returned to the Cross Keys Inn, to a magnificent entertainment.
On the 31st July 1794, the last Court of Assize in Hull was held at the Cross Keys [Trout].......
The directories are not very helpful in their first volumes as the Cross Keys is only mentioned in the coaching sections, and it is not until 1806 that the name of an innkeeper is mentioned. The newspapers though provide information from 23rd January 1796, which announcing the auction of a house and library, the notice is prefixed thus:- At Mr. Baker’s, the Cross Keys, in the Market Place, Hull, . .
Normal practice in the pages of the Hull Advertiser at this period was to include a graphic of a stage coach and four, this presumably paid for by the party issuing the advertisement.
The greatly improved Royal Mail service between Hull and York was established in 1788 by the innovator of the national system, John Palmer, who was created a freedman of the town for his services. The southern mails to London had to traverse the Humber and were thence carried by coach from Barton. The Hull terminus for the York mails was in all probability the Cross Keys Inn from its inception, as within ten years the directories were advertising the service. The honour and prestige of the Royal Mail franchise was jealously guarded by the inns to which it was awarded. Before the turn of the century, the Mail coach left Hull every day at three o’clock from the Cross Keys which also saw the departure of the Hessle coach every Wednesday and Saturday, and other stage coaches to neighbouring villages. The Hull Advertiser of the 3rd February 1798 conveyed the full extent of the services from the inn in order to refute certain allegations made by Mr. Winter, the proprietor of the Neptune Inn, Whitefriargate:-
THE CROSS KEYS INN, MARKET PLACE, HULL
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WILLIAM BAKER
Returns his thanks to his friends and the public, for the many favours he has received during his residence at the above inn, and humbly solicits a continuance of the same, assuring them that every attention will be paid to his house and great care taken to attend the Barton Ferry-boats for the accommodation of his friends.
Seeing an advertisement in this paper last week, respecting the public coaches, W. Baker begs leave to state to the public the true manner in which they run from Hull; fearing friends of the proprietors might be led into a mistake where to take their parcels, &c. to be booked.
MAIL COACH --- to York
Every day at three o’clock, from the Cross Keys, Market Place, as usual, --- Passengers and parcels booked at the same office.
MORNING LIGHT COACH --- Ditto
Every day from Mrs. Johnson’s Whitefriargate, at six o’clock --- Passengers and parcels booked by William Fenwick.
AFTERNOON COACH --- Ditto
Every day at two o’clock from the Neptune
SCARBOROUGH DILIGENCE
Twice a week from the above houses alternately, and the
CAVE COACH
Once a week from ditto alternately, every Monday morning, --- Wm. Fenwick for the Scarborough Diligence, Book-keeper, in the Land of Green Ginger.
COTTINGHAM COACH
Every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday mornings and evenings
HESSLE COACH
Every Wednesday and Saturday, from the Cross Keys, Market Place; where may be had, Post Chaises, Neat Post Chaises, able horses and careful drivers, by the day or mile.
The attempt by Mr. Winter of the Neptune to wrest the Royal Mail from the Cross Keys was met with refined hostility by the other inn-holders in the town. A week after the above notice there appeared yet another shot from Mr. Baker and his friends, the matter had obviously been taken to higher authority. [This item also contained in the file for the Neptune]
W. BAKER ’s respects to the Public, and begs to lay before them a copy of an agreement made by the proprietors, in what manner the YORK STAGE COACHES are to be worked from Hull, (after Mr. Moor’s declining the business) and their signatures; also to afford them, that a MAIL COACH cannot be removed from a contractors house, where it has been accustomed to run from, without the consent of the General Post Office, --- YORK, 2nd February 1798
PROPOSALS , for finally determining the dispute between Mr. Baker and Mr. Winter with regard to the plan of working the coaches, ---
Whereas at a meeting of the Proprietors held at Hull, on Saturday the 20th of January, 1798, for the purpose of admitting Mr. Winter into the concern, as successor to Mr. Moor, and other matters; after mature consideration, it seemed to be the unanimous opinion of all present, that the Mail Coach always had gone to Mr. Baker’s [authors emphasis], and as a change, in that respect, would be attended with very great inconvenience to the Public, by their not knowing where to apply with certainty, and would make the settlement, which are already long and tedious, much more so by money being taken at two houses for the same coach, and would answer no good purpose whatsoever, especially as Mr. Baker promised to accommodate Mr. Winter’s friends in every respect as much as possible, by setting them down, and taking them up at his house at all times when desired. And as every proprietor has all equal share in any superior advantage which arises from the Mail carnings(sic), it can make no difference to Mr. Winter, in that respect, when he seemed at the time satisfied of, and expressed a readiness to acquiesce with.
But as it has since been represented, that Mr. Winter still claims a right, both to working the Mail and also have her at his house alternately, contrary to the opinion of Mr. Moor and the rest of the proprietors then present; it is now become absolutely necessary for them to interfere, in order to determine by vote, what they were in hopes would have been settled amicably between the parties, without putting the company to the trouble of taking such an unpleasant step.
Those proprietors, therefore who are of the opinion that it will be most advantageous to the company for Mr. Baker to work the Mail singly, and Mr. Winter the Light coach the same way, will sign their names under Mr. Baker’s column --- and those who are of a contrary opinion, namely, that it will be more advantageous for Mr. Baker and Mr. Winter to work the Mail and the Light coach alternately, will sign their names under Mr. Winter’s column.
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VOTES FOR
Mr. BAKER
JOHN HARTLEY
AMBROSE BATTY
FRANCIS PULLEYN
ELIZABETH ROSCOE
THOMAS HEARD
C. GILL
WILLIAM CHARTER
CHARLES GREENWOOD
MARY JOHNSON
VOTES FOR
Mr. WINTER
COOK TAYLOR
By the 9th of June 1798, it had become obvious that a campaign of false rumours had been started by persons unknown and Mr. Baker felt bound to refute in the Advertiser, the stories of the cessation of business at the Cross Keys. During these years, the usual gamuts of events were being held at the inn, from auctions to bankruptcy hearings. On March 22nd 1800, though, the Advertiser announced that:-
CROSS KEYS INN, MARKET PLACE
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TO BREWERS, WINE MERCHANTS, DISTILLERS, BUILDERS & OTHERS
TO BE SOLD BY AUCTION
By Mr. Hanswell
On Tuesday May the 6th, 1800, between the hours of two and four in the afternoon, on the premises, if not previously sold by private contract,
ALL that valuable FREEHOLD ESTATE, known by the sign of the CROSS KEYS, situated in the most central part of the Market Place, Hull, many years established as a travellers house, and now in the occupation of Mr. Baker the proprietor.
From its locality, and consequence as an inn, the premises have long claimed advantages, too obvious to require any comment in an advertisement, and not less so from its situation as a place peculiarly well adapted for an additional Market, Tenements, Warehouses, &c.
The trade is undeniable in the consumption of wine and spirits (together with Tap), which renders it an object well worth the attention of any who may wish to enter into that line: the place possessing every necessary accommodation for carrying on public business.
Should the purchaser be disposed to employ the premises as an inn, he may be accommodated with the whole, or any part of the household furniture, &c. at a fair valuation. As the whole estate will be first put up in one lot, and if not sold, will be immediately exposed in separate lots, agreeable to the plans, which may be viewed in the office of Mr. Jackson, Scale Lane, where printed particulars may be had; or at Mr. Shackles Great Room, Lowgate; and also of Mr. Baker, who will shew the premises.
Letters post paid will be duly attended to.
The above auction either failed or was withdrawn because the house was again advertised in the papers on the 19th of July. This notice was aimed more at preserving the house as an inn rather than dispersing the property into separate parcels. Stabling for upwards of 35 horses was included in the notice. A month earlier there had been the start of “An Exhibition of the GRANDEST SPECTACLE ever offered to the eyes of the Public.” at the Cross Keys. This included representations of “The GRAND ATTACK upon VALENCIENNES, at SUN SET”, and“the Splendid and ever memorable Victory of LORD HOWE, on the First of June, over the FRENCH FLEET”.
On the 8th of November 1800, the protracted negotiations for the transfer of the ownership of the inn were completed and the Advertiser contained two notices, one from the outgoing innkeeper and one from the incoming:-
TO THE PUBLIC
_______
MR. WILLIAM BAKER,
Of the Cross Keys Inn, Market Place, Hull,
Feels himself particularly at this time called upon to acknowledge his most grateful thanks for the unlimited favours he has experienced during the many years he has been established in the above premises, begs leave also to acquaint the Public he has resigned the trade in favour of Mr. E. Fenwick, Clerk in the Mail and York Coaches, (which as usual, will run from the Cross Keys) who will carry on the business in all its branches; and doubts not by an unremitting attention, he will study to merit their patronage.
N.B. ------ W.B. will continue the coaches as before
________________________
E. FENWICK
CLERK TO THE MAIL AND YORK COACHES,
And successor to Mr. Wm. Baker, of the Cross Keys Inn, Market Place, Hull, (retiring from business)
Begs leave to inform the Public, he will enter upon the above business on the 20th inst. The trade of which he intends continuing as a Travellers House as usual. E.F. is determined to supply his friends and the public, they may honour him with their commands, with the best and choicest wines &c. &c., which , together with a constant endeavour for every other accommodation, he trusts will ensure him a continuance of those favours which have distinguished his predecessor.
Nov. 1800.
William Baker moved on to become the Mail Contractor and Post Master whilst operating Post Chaises and stage coaches from his new premises in Mytongate, his connection with the Cross Keys remained however, as all his contracted coaches still used the inn.
William Soulby was one of the waiters at the Cross Keys, and in October 1801, he had made enough money to set up business on his own, which he announced in the Advertiser of the 24th of that month. He did not move very far though as he acquired the Excise Coffee House, Market Place, which had just been vacated by Mr. Lane. The Excise Coffee House is now better known as Ye Olde Corn Exchange public house, North-church-side.
It seems that Mr. Fenwick and Mr. Baker had a falling out over the running of the Mail as in March 1802, William Baker removed the Mail Office from the Cross Keys to Mr. Lyson’s(?) in Mytongate, which was located “three doors away from Vicar Lane”. The coach still picked up and set down passengers at the inn but all the official paper-work was conducted at the new premises. What had happened it seems was that Mr. Fenwick was unable to afford to operate, or even pay for the inn as a further notice in the same edition clearly intimates:-
Excellent Assortment of Prime Feather Beds, Bedding
and Household Furniture in general .
________________
TO BE SOLD BY AUCTION
By Mr. Hansell
(By virtue of an Order from the Sherriff,
and Bill of Sale)
On the premises of the Cross Keys Inn, Market Place, Hull,
on Monday March 8th, 1802, and five following days,
ALL the genuine HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE, comprising upwards of twenty-five Goose Feather Beds and Bedding, Four-post and other bedsteads, with Chintz and other furniture, a large assortment of Mahogany Goods, in chairs, tables, and chests of drawers, piers and other glasses, carpets, table and bed linen, glass and china, and a great variety of kitchen articles, particularly essential to the business of inn-keeping.
Likewise at the same time will be sold,
ALL the stocks of WINES, SPIRITS, BLACK BEER, &c. &c.
By the 20th of March, the Cross Keys was under new management. Matthew Smith, who had kept the Black Swan in Mytongate, had acquired the premises and was advertising the restocking of furniture and cellar. In May, the inn was the venue for the PHANTASMAGORIA which was a display of optical and mechanical illusions run by a Neapolitan called Guliemus Frederico. Performances commenced at 8pm and the price of admission was 3 shillings for a box and 2 shillings for the gallery. This spectacle continued performing every evening for almost three weeks.
Little is then heard from the Cross Keys until the Advertiser of 20th October 1804 when the inn once more, was offered for sale by auction on the 31st of the month, and was said to contain upwards of 1000 square yards of land, three large rooms on the ground floor, an abundance of lodging rooms, a large bay window overlooking the Market Place, good kitchens, bar, cellars and stabling. An idea of the price placed on the inn was provided as the notice said that £2500 of the purchase price could remain on mortgage. On the 8th of November, the contents of the inn were offered at auction, the Advertiser of the 3rd contains a very comprehensive list, then goes on to say that the stock of horses and carriages too were for sale. It seems that the sale of the fabric of the inn itself was unsuccessful as it was once more offered for auction in February 1805. It was not until the following June that the Advertiser contained the following notice, (Matthew Smith had removed to Sam’s Coffee House on South Church Side):-
JOHN MORRIS , BULL and SUN INN, Mytongate, Hull, returns sincere thanks to his friends for the encouragement he has hitherto experienced, and respectfully informs the Nobility, Gentry, Travellers, and the Public in General that he has engaged, and on or about the 17th of July [1805], will open, the CROSS KEYS INN, in the Market Place, Hull, which he is now completely fitting up with new beds, and every other accommodation for the reception of all who may favour him with their patronage, which he humbly solicits; assuring them he has laid in a stock of the best WINES & FOREIGN SPIRITS: and that every exertion shall be made to render agreeable each department at the said inn.
The LONDON, DONCASTER, and BIRMINGHAM Coach, will set out from the above inn, every night at half past eleven, as it does now from the Bull and Sun.
F NEAT POST CHAISE
John Morris’s experience of operating the Bull and Sun proved enough to turn the fortunes of the Cross Keys around. By February 1809, when the face of the Market Place had changed with the demolition of the old town’s hall and gaol tower, plus their replacement by the Shambles, the Cross Keys Inn, still operated by John Morris, boasted the running of the York Light Coach and the Rodney London Coach. At the turn of the new year though his personal life suffered when as the Hull Rockingham announced, Mrs. Morris died on the 30th of December (1808).
HULL ADVERTISER 2nd March 1816 page 2 col 5
HULL, YORK
OLD ESTABLISHED COACHES
The Proprietors return sincere acknowledgements to their Friends and the Public at large for decided preference given to them against attempted Opposition, and will ever endeavour to deserve a continuance.
On account of the Spring advancing, the Proprietors presume it will be more pleasant to many of their Friends to have an earlier time of leaving Hull, Commenced running on Thursday February 20th, the TRAFALGAR will leave Mr. Morris’s and Mr. Banks’, the CROSS KEYS, and BULL AND SUN, Inns at ¾ past Five every morning ; and will start from Mr. Wooley’s the GEORGE Inn precisely at six. The ROCKINGHAM will call at the above inns and leave Mr. T. W. Winter’s, General Coach Office, Bowlalley Lane precisely at Eleven o’clock, the TELEGRAPH at Two o’clock and the ROYAL-MAIL at ¾ past Three. These coaches will all meet others at the York Tavern and Black Swan Inn, Coney Street, York.
Conflict between the coach operators continued with an almost vitriolic exchange of notices in the pages of the press. These are interesting of themselves to show just how important were seen such contracts and any vague or seemingly false claims. Reputations were as vital then as now, and the use of such language as “ the low scurrilous Advertisement issued out by a set of men calling themselves True Briton Coach ” would not have been chosen lightly, but one suspects it was nevertheless of considerable entertainment to the general public to see such public bickering.
HULL ADVERTISER 9th September 1815 page 2 col 3
MORRIS, BANKS and WOOLEY
Return thanks to their Friends and the Public in general, for the liberal support they received while engaged in running the TRUE BRITON COACH : their concern, in which, in consequence of irregular proceedings they could not agree to, they were under the necessity of relinquishing. The Public will have observed, in the newspapers and handbills a coach advertised to run from Hull to Newcastle, in one day at ten o’clock every morning, which only continued a few days !.
MORRIS, BANKS and WOOLEY, determined to act upon a more regular system, respectfully acquaint their friends and the public that they have commenced running the TRAFALGAR COACH from the CROSS KEYS, GEORGE INN, and BULL and SUN, every morning at six o’clock and every afternoon at two o’clock, where Passengers and Parcels will be regularly booked ; and also at the General Coach Office, T. W. Winters, Bowlalley Lane.
HULL ADVERTISER 16 th September 1815 page 2 col 5
TO THE PUBLIC
The PROPRIETORS of the TRUE BRITON COACH feel themselves called upon to notice a very mischievous incorrect and foolish advertisement: which has been inserted in some of the Hull newspapers by Messrs. BANKS and WOOLEY. What a wretched attempt to exculpate those two gentlemen from that public censure, which their lat conduct deserved and bring this coach into disrepute.
The TRUE BRITON COACH has run from Hull to York with the greatest regularity upwards of four years and has probably saved the Public already upwards of £2000 in coach fares. Let the inhabitants of Hull, York &c decide where the patronage is most due. And where it can be bestowed most advantageously for themselves.
Passengers and Parcels will be regularly Booked at Mr WOODHEAD’S Neptune Inn(late Black Horse) Chariot Street; Mr WM. BLAKEY’S Blackfriagate and at Mr. THOMAS WILSON’S Reindeer. Market Place and at no other COACH OFFICE in Hull
Notwithstanding the violence with which by those men .j are opposed by a set of men who have long and still wish to monopolise the Road. They will continue to work with the above coach in the same good style they have hitherto done.
In consequence of the many fatal accidents that have lately occurred. By the overturning of coaches the proprietors of the TRUE BRITON COACH are determined not to allow any of their Servants to race with any other Coachmen
HULL ADVERTISER 23 rd September 1815 Page 2 Col 4
BANKS and WOOLLEY
Cannot refrain noticing the low scurrilous Advertisement issued out by a set of men calling themselves True Briton Coach. without at the same time assuring them that the Proprietors of the Trafalgar Coach are not in the least alaramed or surprised at the ridiculous ,stuff inserted by those men, in the Hull Papers, as it quite agrees with the their other irregular proceedings. and corresponds with the party from whence it comes.
Banks and Woolley would recommend to the writer of the Advertisement and his worthy colleagues, when they again wish to amuse the Public to adhere more to facts and refrain from abuse. or the “wretched attempt to exculpate themselves and must bring upon them public censure” .
The Proprietors of the Trafalgar Coach yet hope by regularity and strict attention to merit the confidence of their Friends and the Public.
HULL ADVERTISER Page 2 Col. 3 16 September 1815
The Proprietors of the OLD - established HULL and YORK COACHES returning grateful acknowledgements to their Friends and the Public at large: for their steady support and the decided preference given against an attempted opposition. and respectfully inform them that on MONDAY next. on account of the deduction in the Price of Provender the FARES of the MAIL will be lowered.
Also that at the request of a number of constant Friends they have altered the time of the TRAFALGAR COACH starting which they consider will be a particular accommodation during the Winter Season.
It will Leave Mr. BANK’S the BULL and SUN and MR. MORRIS’S the CROSS KEYS INN a quarter before Seven o’clock: and MR WOOLLEY’S Booked at T.W.WINTERS General Coach Office, Bowlalley -lane and forwarded to all parts of the Kingdom.
The Cross Keys transferred to John Snow in the early years of the 1820’s, at which time John Morris moved on to the Coach Office in Lowgate, where at the age of 61, he died on the 23rd of September 1825. The coaching trade continued to grow on the strong foundations laid by Morris, the 1822 directory contains the following services running from the inn:- the Royal Mail to York, Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool at a quarter to 4pm: the Trafalgar to York and Leeds every morning at 6 o’clock: the Wellington to Scarborough every morning at a half past 6 o’clock during the summer, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday in winter: the Rockingham at 10am (not Saturdays) to York: the Rodney to Doncaster, Sheffield and London every morning at 6 o’clock.
Courtesy Hull Museums
In or around 1830, John Snow had been replaced by Thomas Geldard who was responsible for the production of the singularly superb representation of the inn which is found on his trade card. From this source it can be seen that the Cross Keys had by then acquired its fourth floor, with the bow windows spanning the second and third floors. Four Ionic moulded pilasters graced the facade and a name board bearing the designation “GELDARD’S HOTEL” spans the northern part of the building between the third and fourth floor windows. The inn sign is still visible above the bay window over the arched entrance. The stage coach getting ready to depart is probably the Telegraph Day Coach to York; other vehicles advertised for hire are post chaises, barouches, landaus and chariots. The card suggests, by the added detail, that the inn also included at least the upper three floors of the building immediately to the south. The intermediate stage of transferring the title of the premises from inn to hotel is also apparent in the full title which is given as the “CROSS KEYS FAMILY HOTEL AND COMMERCIAL INN”.
Relating to this time, the Eastern Morning News of the 17th October 1925 contained the following item:-
“Old Billheads
Much interesting information can often be obtained from old inn bills, two particularly interesting examples of which have just been sent to the Museum of Commerce and Transport at Hull by Mr. H. P. Kendall, of Sewerby Bridge. One has an engraved heading relating to the Cross Keys Family Hotel, Hull, a well known coaching house, which was a favourite resort until quite recently; the building being empty at the present time. The following is a list of the items on this account:-
January 16th 1834 : Teas 3s 6d; beds, 12s. 17th: Breakfasts 4s; dinners 6s; soda water, 2s 3d; teas, 3s 6d. 18th: Breakfasts, 4s; dinners, 6s; soda water, 1s 6d; teas, 3s 6d. 19th: Breakfasts, 6s; teas, 3s 6d. 20th: Breakfasts, 4s; servants’ eating and beds, £2 9s 2d; post-horses, nine miles to Beverley, 11s 3d; tolls, 1s; total, £6 5s 2d. . . . . .”
By 1839 the coaching trade was probably at its peak, the Cross Keys maintained services with the Trafalgar to Beverley at half past 7 o’clock, continued to York: the Wellington to Beverley at 8 o’clock, continued to Bridlington, Scarborough and Whitby: two Royal Mail coaches to York, one departing at a quarter past 11 o’clock, and the other departing at 4 o’clock. Royal Mail coach to Boothferry at half past 4 o’clock in the morning, continuing on to Doncaster and Sheffield. Royal Mail coach to Boston at 7 o’clock in the morning via Caistor, Market Raisen and Horncastle. The Magna Carta to London at 7 o’clock in the morning via Newark, Nottingham and Derby. Also in 1839, the Hull Advertiser of the 19th of April contained the announcement that Thomas Geldard had retired from business and that his ex-head waiter, William Varley had taken the hotel on, and started the dynasty that would take the Cross Keys into the 20th century. The Eastern Counties Herald of the 18th of April also contained notices from Thomas Geldard acknowledging the “ kind support he has experienced for so many years from the Nobility and Gentry, Commercial gentlemen and the Public ”- and William Varley who announced that although “ The house is undergoing a thorough repair in every department; particular attention will be paid to the comfort of parties requiring private rooms. . . . ”. The coaching trade was assured to all parts of the kingdom, and cabs were always in attendance to convey passengers to every part of the borough. An addition to the stage coach list in the same notice states that the Eclipse coach left every morning at half past five to Manchester and Liverpool, through Cave, Howden, Wakefield and Huddersfield.
On New Year’s day of 1841, William Varley proudly announcedthe completion of the alterations to the Cross Keys:-
EXTENSIVE ALTERATIONS AND GREAT
IMPROVEMENT
CROSS KEYS HOTEL, MARKET PLACE, HULL.
W.VARLEY, in returning his most sincere thanks for the distinguished patronage he has received since his commencement, respectfully begs to announce that in addition to the Hotel
having undergone a thorough repair, he has just completed the whole of his alterations and improvements by uniting the extensive Front Premises recently occupied by Mr. Frankish, to the Hotel, with an internal communication with each side of the house; the whole of which having been done with the sole view of making the Cross Keys one of the most comfortable First Rate Hotels in the county, he flatters himself that his endeavours will be fully appreciated.
To the comfort of Commercial Gentlemen, W.V. has directed his special attention; and in addition to his well known Coffee Room, he has fitted up a commodious apartment, which is exclusively appropriated to their convenience. Also a comfortable Smoking Room.
To strangers visiting Hull, who may be unacquainted with the situation of the Cross Keys, W.V. begs to say that it is in the centre of the Market Place, commanding an extensive view both right and left, is in the immediate vicinity of the Landing Place for all Steam-packets, and a very short distance from the Railway depot; this circumstance, connected with the advantage of the General Coach Office being attached to the hotel, renders it of paramount importance.
The marked increase of the Mail services at this time foretold of the approach of the railways which connected Hull to Selby in 1840. By then the Mail coaches had become more sophisticated in appearance and performance, though their livery of black and maroon with assorted royal ciphers and badges remained unchanged since their inception. By June 1841, the Cross Keys had had joined the Railway Age, advertising the service of the “RAILWAY OMNIBUS”- which “calls at the Cross Keys for every Train”. This last perhaps is the most telling. The arrival of the railways at Hull with the opening of the Selby – Hull line, which then connected with much of the rest of the burgeoning rail network, was not in the immediate catchment area of the Cross Keys, the termini all being well to the west, eventually settling at Paragon Station, still in current use. This migration of trade towards the railway stations must have been a devastating blow to the trade of the hotel, and the operation of an omnibus – horse drawn it should be pointed out – would have done little to delay the inevitable.
The above from the collection of Ted Dodsworth, and borrowed from his book Hull & East Riding Early Days on the Road, a Photographic Record, Hutton Press, Beverley, ISBN 0907033520
The story of the advancement of the railways in the area is concisely described:
The railway first came to Selby in 1834 in the shape of the Leeds & Selby Railway. This was just a few years after the first ever passenger railway in the world was constructed between Stockton and Darlington. The route was built primarily to move goods from the major industrial city of Leeds to the River Ouse at Selby to allow traffic to continue its journey by boat to the east coast port of Hull. The original station at Selby consisted of a shed by the waterside in which passengers would alight the train and walk across the road to the connecting boat on the river. This site was just behind the current station site. Selby station was the first railway station to be built in Yorkshire, a fact commemorated by a plaque on the original building.
1840 saw the next major developments for Selby as a railway hub. The York and North Midland Railway Company completed its line from York to Castleford via Burton Salmon. This line was also joined to the Leeds & Selby railway allowing trains to run from York to Selby and Selby to Castleford. More importantly a line from Hull to Selby – the Hull and Selby Railway – was built allowing through running from Leeds to Hull. The original terminus station of the Leeds & Selby railway was converted to goods use only and the current station was built. In order to cross the River Ouse a swing bridge was installed to the East of the station. Ships had (and still have) priority over railway traffic.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selby_railway_station
From the 1842 directory it can be seen that the hotel maintained a Tap Room which was accessible to the less well-healed of the population, located in what the plan calls Grimsby Lane Alley [see below]. The first occupant of these premises is listed as John Champney, and the last is listed as Miss Eliza Champney [presumably John’s daughter] in 1885. Though, strictly speaking, the Tap Room was located at a different address, it must be included as part of the Cross Keys as a whole, rather than as a separate house. These small and often dingy rooms often have little in the way of recorded history, and possibly the less said about them the better but a description has survived of which more later.
One notable occasion, which is often referred to, happened during the evening of the 8th April 1859 according to Sheahan’s History of Hull, when during a political campaign, one of the favourite representatives, James Clay, accompanied by John Harvey Lewis entered the town. Sheahan says:-
“The carriage containing the candidates was met by thousands on the Hessle road, and despite the remonstrance’s of Mr. Clay, the horses were removed from their harness, and their place taken by a stalwart and eager train of working men, who amidst the most enthusiastic demonstrations, proceeded to drag the vehicle towards the town. The procession included the orders of Druids and Oddfellows, headed by bands of music. Several times during the progress of the procession, the coach containing the candidates was lifted by its delighted bearers completely off the ground and carried aloft on their shoulders. When the Cross Keys was reached, the sight from its windows was a strange one. The whole Market-place seemed to have been transformed into a sea of heads.”
click on image for a larger version
A very accurate description as can be verified by this later photograph taken at some civic event, possibly one of Queen Victoria’s Jubilees, as provided by Paul Gibson.
In 1910, the then Ann Varley stated to the Hull Daily Mail, that she could remember Mr. James Clay M.P., who she said was “ an expert on whist ”, addressing a vast audience which stretched from Mytongate as far as the eye could see. She might have been describing the same event. In the same interview she also said that her mother
“…indulged in the exceedingly playful sport of pelting the ‘Blues’ with rotten eggs from the upstairs window. Those were lively elections. We had a court-yard; a bull was decorated with orange ribbon.”
The alluded to ‘colours’ of blue and orange refer to the political parties of the Tories and the Whigs respectively.
The owners of the Cross Keys made an unsuccessful attempt to sell the hotel in 1891, the catalogue for which is in the City Records Office at REF:- DBHT 9/430. This contains a detailed ground plan of the premises, a representation of which is shown below. It is only meant as an illustration of the complexity of the site and is not to scale. According to a hand written note at the foot of the cover of this plan, the premises were withdrawn from the auction as no bid had been forthcoming. The catalogue of the auctioneers, N. Easton & Son states that the sale was to be held on Friday, July 24 th 1891 at 2 for 2:30pm at their property in Bowlalley Lane, and that the sale also included two shops at numbers 31 and 32 Market Place and a further two in Fetter Lane. The particulars, to be sold as one lot comprised “The Old Established Fully Licensed Freehold Family and Commercial House known as VARLEY’S CROSS KEYS HOTEL, situate in the Market Place, and also having a frontage to Grimsby Lane, Hull”. The description continues:
“The property forms three sides of a Court yard, and although it occupies one of the most central positions in the town, the majority of the Rooms enjoy the greatest quietude.
“The Hotel has for over half a century been carried on by the late Mrs. Varley, and has during that periods, and does still enjoy, a wide reputation as one of the most comfortable Family and Commercial Houses in the Country, and of late years
A LARGE RESTAURANT BUSINESS
has been added.
The position occupied is unique for the above Businesses, and as the site of the whole property is a large one, there is plenty of space for further development, which id much needed.
The Internal Accommodation Comprises:-
HANDSOME RESTAURANT, with BAR attached
Spacious and Lofty COMMERCIAL ROOM, COFFEE ROOM, BILLIARD ROOM, 2 SMOKING ROOMS, PRIVATE BAR, 4 PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, 43 BEDROOMS, LUGGAGE ROOM, TAP ROOM; also
LINEN ROOM, KITCHENS, LARDERS, WAITER’s PANTRY, PLATE PANTRY, SERVANTS’ HALL, BOOT HOUSE, CELLARS, W.C.s, LAVATORIES, STABLING for 7 HORSES, LARGE COACH HOUSE, and other conveniences…… The property has 3 frontages, and a total quantity of land, in the whole, is about, 1545 Square Yards.
The above is probably the best surviving verbal description of the whole property, and should be compared with the plan here presented below.
click on image for a larger version
It is not easy to resolve the ground-plan with those of the Ordnance Survey. The latter clearly show that the YORK ARMS public-house was situated at almost the self same spot as the vegetable store, fronting Grimsby Lane at No. 10. The York Arms will be treated as an independent property, with its own history, but sufficed to say here that the house was bought by Mrs. Ann Varley from Mrs. Esther Gallon for £1,205 in April 1877 [TLA 31452 / 3]. Then she leased the premises to Robert Hunt, and the house was subsequently acquired by the Hull Brewery until its closure in about 1908.
Mrs. Ann Varley died on the 4th of December 1889 [TLA 31452 / 3]. The 1899 Incorporation for the Poor list [HCA] states that the Cross Keys was subsequently owned by Ann, Sarah and Ada Varley together and that the licensed premises were not tied to a brewery, they were however in a sorry financial condition it would seem.
Extracts from the Last Will & Testament of Ann Varley licensed victualler at the Cross Keys Hotel, in the borough of Kingston upon Hull provided by M. Lees from West Sussex who is the Gt. Gt. Grandson of the same Mrs. Ann Varley, the testatrix below named.
Mr. Lees was also able to provide information relating how the Varley’s entered into the Cross keys, he says in a letter dated 14 th November 1997;
“William Varley, the son of an inn-keeper, comes to our attention when he takes over the Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place, Hull in April 1839. A month earlier he had married Ann Atkinson in the parish church of Patrington where her father was an innkeeper of the Tree Tuns (now the Holderness Inn). A witness, possibly a bridesmaid who signed the marriage certificate was Sarah Ann Geldard, the daughter of Thomas Geldard the previous owner of the Cross keys and employer of William Varley……”
The Will begins:
Be it known that at the date hereunder written the last Will and Testament of
Ann Varley late of the Cross keys Hotel in Market Place in the Borough of Kinston upon Hull Widow deceased, who died on the 4 th day of December 1889, at the Cross Keys Hotel aforesaid and who at the time of her death had a fixed place or abode at the Cross keys Hotel aforesaid within the District of the North and East Ridings of the County of York including the City of York --- thereof, who has proved and registered in the District Probate Registry of Her Majesty’s High Court of Justice at York and that administration of the personal estate of the said deceased was granted by the aforesaid Court to James Varley of the Crescent Hotel Filey in the said county of York Licensed Victualler the son of the said deceased and Anne Varley of the Cross Keys aforesaid spinster the daughter of the said deceased two of the executors named in the said will they having been first sworn well and faithfully to administer the same. John Brown Ward the other executor named in the said will having renounced the probate and execution thereof
Renunciation dated 13 th January 1890
Dated the 20 th day of January 1890
Gross value of Personal estate £ 3928 – 13 – 10
Net value ------- ditto ------- £1190 – 15 – 10
Extracted by Leak Till & Stephenson, Solicitors.
This is the last will and testament of me Ann Varley of the Cross keys Hotel in the Borough of Kingston upon Hull licensed victualler made the eighteenth day of August one thousand eight hundred and seventy nine……….
Whereas since the sixth day of April one thousand eight hundred and seventy five been assisted in carrying on my said business by my three daughters Ann Varley, Sarah Varley, and Ada Varley and I have agreed to pay to each of them a salary of fifty pounds a year………
Whereas the said Cross keys Hotel and premises or such part thereof as belongs to Mrs. Sarah Ann Morrish were by an Indenture dated the eleventh day of February one thousand eight hundred and seventy five devised to myself and my daughters Ann Varley, Sarah Varley and Ada Varley and the said James Varley for the term of seven years commencing from the sixth day of April one thousand eight hundred and seventy five and upon the terms in the said Indenture mentioned And whereas I some time ago purchased from the trustees of the late Mr. Frankish certain freehold property situate on the south side of the said Cross Keys Hotel and in accordance with the provisions of the said Indenture of lease I have made certain alterations in the said hotel and the said freehold hereditaments so that such freehold hereditaments are now used along with and form an adjunct to the said Hotel………
[The will then continues for several pages RGH]
Mr Lees also casts considerable light onto the Morrish connection, when in his letter he states
“in 1875, James Varley married a Kate Morrish who was the daughter of Thomas Morrish and Sarah Ann Morrish (nee Geldard – Ann Varley’s bridesmaid)”
According to documents in the City Records Office, dated 1901, the Yorkshire Bank, who held the Varley’s account, says it went into liquidation and was acquired by the London City & Midland Bank. The Midland foreclosed on the Varley’s debt. Clara Varley and John Moore Bayley attempted to salvage what they could but it only amounted to numbers 11, 12 and 13 Grimsby Lane. The Hull Daily Mail, of the 2nd of February 1910 however, contains an article concerning “ the forthcoming sale of Varley’s Cross Keys Hotel ” which “has caused some apprehension in the minds of some of our historic-loving citizens ”. This article definitely implies that the then owner of the hotel was Miss Ann Varley, how this fits in with the earlier documents is uncertain. It is possible that the Varley’s were allowed to remain on the premises as tenants until the property could be sold. This would have led to the auction mentioned in the “Mail”, when the hotel was once more offered at auction by N. Easton & Son, Auctioneers, Bowlalley Lane, on the 9th of February at 2 - 30pm. A hand written note at the foot of the catalogue cover says ...... £4,000 bid.
|
This is a photocopied photograph of an Ann Varley, it is considered most likely to be that of the daughter of Mrs. Ann Varley rather than of the old lady herself, who would not one suspects have appeared so young. It is however an old image, and might just be of a much younger Ann, taken perhaps as early as the 1860’s. |
The same Hull Daily Mail article also provides a brief description of the “TAP”, it says that it was:-
... situated at the end of the courtyard and is entered from Grimsby Lane. Its square paned window, high counter, and cosy little snug so adumbrates the Dickensian descriptions that one would not experience the slightest surprise if one came face to face with the ‘Artful Dodger’.
Further information about the Tap emerged at the Brewster Sessions of February 1912, which were also reported in the pages of the Hull Daily Mail. The state of the Tap was used as an excuse to call for the closure of the whole hotel, the license opposed by the police whose objection was:-
.... to the part of the licensed premises approached from Grimsby Lane alley. The tap-room had an area of 80 superficial feet, and a height of 9 feet 2½ inches. The space for the customers was 8 feet 4 inches by 4 feet 8 inches. The room was extremely dark, and when one of the architects inspected the place on Saturday, it was necessary to have a light burning. If arrangements could be made to put the house into proper sanitary conditions, and the licensees would agree to close these small objectionable places leading from this very narrow alley, the police would be willing to drop the matter.
It is curious to note that at these same Sessions, it was reported several times that the age of the Cross Keys spanned 600 years. With regard to the hotel itself, it was also objected to on the grounds of “structural deficiency and unsuitability.” The subsequent meeting of the Sessions were told that:-
..... modern fittings were to be installed to meet the difficulty of exits on the northern wing. It was suggested that the staircase at the east end be continued from top to bottom and the building throughout was being repaired and re-decorated..... He [ Mr. Dosser, the architect, added ] ..... the attics were fit to be occupied. He had slept in many a worse room himself. He would not object to sleeping in one. In case of fire, he thought arrangements were adequate. There were no less than six staircases giving direct access to the open court.
Councillor William Harrison, Sanitary Engineer, told the meeting that his firm had been entrusted with the sanitary work at the hotel, and on his assurancethat the work would bring the house up to standard, the license was renewed.
An article in Modern Hull, from the turn of the century provides a graphic insight into the legend and operation of the hotel, it was meant basically as an advertisement but is still worth quoting in full, even though much of the material has been previously mentioned.
The Cross Keys Hotel,
Market Place.
The Misses Varley, Proprietors.
One is often treated to a mournful lament over the decadence and disappearance of our old-fashioned hostelries, which came about as a necessary consequence of the suppression of the good old coaching days, by the era of the iron horse.
In the Cross Keys Hotel, of Hull, however, we have a remarkable illustration of the survival of the fittest, for this excellent hostelry, which was a flourishing coaching house, and the great hotel for the county families in the old days, is still rejoicing in a similar degree of prosperity, and is now the best commercial and family hotel in the neighbourhood. Times have changed very much during the 300 years that this house has been following its career of usefulness, and although the stabling for 40 horses is only required on special occasions, still the Cross Keys has been adapted to modern requirements with very considerable skill and discernment, at the same time retaining all those features of the old-world inn, which are so dear to the large majority of the travelling public.
It appears that the Cross Keys was originally on the south side of the present court-yard, but it then included the house and premises which were until recently occupied by Mr. R. Beal, the grocer, but which have now been again incorporated into the hotel buildings. There is little doubt that the hotel derived its appellation from its contiguity to the old Friary, and from the ancient jurisdiction which the Archbishop of York held here, and confirmation of these ideas appears to be furnished by the fact that human skulls and remains have been discovered during the excavating operations in the yard. It is thought by many authorities that there was once a place of sepulchre in the immediate vicinity, or that the cemetery of the Black Friar’s extended as far as this spot.
However this may be, the hotel is certainly one of the most ancient - if not the very oldest - in the district, and it is as good in every respect as it is old.
The entrance is by means of the large paved court-yard, to which we have already been referred, and once inside here, one may almost forget the busy streets of Hull, in spite of the fact that the house is situate in the centre of the town, overlooking the Market Place. The outer world is entirely hidden by the shrubs and plants lining the yard, while creepers of various kinds run over the walls, giving the place, especially in summer, and a most pleasing and attractive appearance.
There are three good entrances. The principal way leads by means of a staircase from the court-yard to the coffee-room, this being situated on the first floor overlooking the Market Place. There is also a separate entrance to the office and the upper portions of the house, while the entrance to the restaurant is on the right side of the archway.
The hotel is provided with a large smoke room, a restaurant (which is the largest apartment in the place), a very handsome and lofty commercial room coming next in size (this is one of the finest in this part of the country), stock rooms, billiard room, two private sitting rooms, and about fifty bedrooms, in addition to the coffee room already mentioned. The whole of these apartments are thoroughly well furnished, many of them being hung with fine old oil paintings, and all of them pervaded with that delightful air of antiquity which befits a place boasting three hundred years of prosperity.
That the impact of the railways can be seen from the opening sentence of this item, in which trade was then being sought from the cross Humber ferry links with Lincolnshire, and the patronage of those from Holderness;
HULL TIMES
16th March 1912
______________
RE-OPENING OF THE CROSS KEYS HOTEL
Visitors to Hull from Lincolnshire and East Yorkshire will no doubt be interested to learn that the Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place, Hull, which is the oldest licensed house in the city or district, has been re-opened after being closed for months. The interior has been greatly improved in the meantime. Miss Varley, whose family had been in occupation of the house for many generations, has retired from the management, which has been undertaken by Mr. and Mrs. Harling. Luncheons are served at popular prices from noon to 3pm. The smoke room is one of the most comfortable, having been re-furnished throughout.
The last directory to mention the Varley’s at the Cross Keys is that of 1912, the subsequent edition contains the name Allen Owen Harling which continues until 1915. The next edition, the 1916 lists Sydney Benjamin Wilson, followed in the 1919 by Richard Smith, who is confirmed as owner in an Abstract of Title, REF:- TLA 31452 / 6.
The end finally came with an announcement in the Hull Daily Mail of the 6th of January 1923 which stated that:-
OLD FAVOURITE’S DEMISE
_____
THE CROSS KEYS AND ITS FAMOUS
ASSOCIATIONS
RELIC OF “YE GOODE OLDE DAYS”
A famous old hostelry, the Cross Keys in the Market-place, Hull, is now closed by the licensing justices on the grounds of redundancy. Overlooking King William Statue it will be familiar to Hull people and visitors.
Steeped in the traditions and history of ancient Hull, it was at one period the chief inn in Hull, and before the railways were introduced was a coaching house and the great hotel for the county families. There was stabling for over forty horses. The headquarters of the Whig party, many lively election scenes have taken place there.
The age of the hotel is doubtful, but it is understood to be the oldest licensed house in Hull. The archbishop’s coat of arms which was above the hotel recalled the former power of the archbishop of York over Hull in the matter of tolls, props and other advantages on merchandise and wine on the river at Hull.
ARCHBISHOP v. MAYOR
Finding it difficult to collect these rights he, then Archbishop Neville, in 1387, came to Hull to enforce them in person, but the then mayor (Sir Thomas de Waltham) contested the matter, and in a fit of irritation wrested the crosier out of the Prelate’s hands and struck one of his Grace’s attendants with it. A riot followed and as a sequel, the mayor and his supporters were summoned by the king to Westminster, where after years of litigation their petition to keep the advantages in Hull was granted. The passing of the old land-mark will be much regretted in Hull. The future of the building, which belongs to three different Hull proprietors who own three separate portions of the buildings is uncertain.
KEYS FIVE FEET LONG
Some interesting relics of the Cross Keys Hotel are to be seen in the Wilberforce Museum. There is to be deposited the great crossed keys carved in wood - each key about five feet long - which used to hang over the entrance. There is also to be seen the fine bronze Dutch bell, beautifully decorated which used to hang at the hotel. It is dated 1596, and was presented to the museum by the late Mrs. Varley.
Investigations by current museum staff [1996] have assured me that the relics of this inn, as with so many others when asked for, were “destroyed during the Second World War”.
In July 1935, the then owners’ representatives offered the building to the Housing and Town Planning Committee at a price of £4,000 which site was said to contain 1,550 square yards. The offer was rejected and passed on to the Markets and Abattoirs Committee, who must have also declined the offer, as by 1938 the building had been demolished and a motor vehicle maintenance business had been approved for the site fronting Market Place.
The demolition of the Cross Keys was more or less inevitable, photographs held in the City Records Office in the Dangerous Building’s file and other contemporary images of the archaeology show that the main structure was suffering from severe subsidence. The cause of this eventually became apparent during the 1994 excavation of the site. This revealed that several of the hotel’s walls had spanned the remnants of the foundations of the long vanished church of the Augustinian Blackfriars. Ground levels on either side of these foundations had sunk by almost 6 inches, which can be clearly seen from the photograph of the floor of what was once the hotel smoke-room.
The sadly dilapidated state of the front of the building can be appreciated in a 1935 image at REF:- TDV 1C 1935. The words “Cross Keys Hotel - Restaurant” span the first and second floors of the southern wing, above “Premier Amusements - Admission Free”, which then occupied the ground floor. The splendid twin floored bay windows of this wing have been removed, and most of the ornate moulding and rendering of the facade has fallen off. The end finally came about two years later when the following item appeared in the Hull Times on the 6th November 1937, and which provides a marvellous description of the demolition of the Cross Keys Hotel.
click on image for a larger version
Paul Gibson has very kindly sent this compilation of entries collected from Trade Directories of the inn and hotel owners of the Cross Keys; it provides a basic guide to the dates of occupancy of the innkeepers from about 1800:
1770 Joseph Baker sign of the Cross Keys [York Courant], Market Place
1787 William Baker [poster advertising Hull to York coach, in 'Streetlife' museum]
1791 William Baker, Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1800 William Baker (pre-November), Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1800 E. Fenwick (ex-Clerk to Mail and York Coaches) (after November), Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1802 Matthew Smith (moved to Sam`s Coffee House in June 1805), Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1806 John Morris (ex- Bull & Sun), Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1806 John Morris, Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1810 John Morris, Cross Keys Inn, Market Place
1814 John Morris victualler, Cross Keys Inn, 32 Market Place
1817 John Morris, Cross Keys Inn, 32 Market Place
1822 John Morris coach proprietor, Cross Keys, 32 Market Place
1823 John Snow posting house, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1826 John Snow vict., Cross Keys Inn, 33 Market Place
1831 Thomas Geldard vict., Cross Keys Inn, 32 Market Place
1834 Thomas Geldard, Cross Keys, 32 Market Place
1835 Thomas Geldard vict., Cross Keys, 32 Market Place
1838 Thomas Geldard, Cross Keys Commercial Hotel, Market Place
1839 Thomas Geldard (until April), Cross Keys, 32 Market Place
1840 Thomas Geldard, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place [this directory entry is out of date]
1839 William Varley (ex - Head Waiter) (from April 1839)
1842 William Varley, victualler, Coach, Gig & Cab Proprietor, Cross Keys Hotel, 32 Market Place
1842 William Varley victualler, Cross Keys Hotel, 32 Market Place
1846 William Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1848 William Varley victualler, Cross Keys Hotel, family, commercial & posting house 32 Market Place
1851 William Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1863 Mrs. A. Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1867 Ann Varley, Cross Keys Hotel [posting], 32 Market Place
1872 Mrs. A. Varley, Cross Keys Commercial Hotel, 32 Market Place
1874-5 Mrs. A. Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, 32 Market Place
1876 Mrs. Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1879 Mrs. Ann Varley, Cross Keys commercial & family hotel, 32 & 33 Market Place
1882 Mrs. Ann Varley, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1885 Anne Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1889 Mrs. Ann Varley (died 4 December 1889), Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1895 Varleys, Cross Keys commercial & family hotel, 32 & 33 Market Place
1897 Varleys, Cross Keys commercial & family hotel, 32 & 33 Market Place
1899 Ann, Sarah, Ada Varley, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1901 Ann Varley, Cross Keys Hotel, 32 & 33 Market Place
1905 Ann Varley (daughter), Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1912 Ann Varley, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1912 Allan Owen Harling (from March 1912), Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1912 Allan Owen Harling (Ann Varley/ Jayne Geldard Morrish, owners), Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1915 Allan Owen Harling, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1916 Sydney Benjamin Wilson, Cross Keys, 33 Market Place
1918 Richard Smith, Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1921 Richard Smith,Cross Keys Hotel, Market Place
1922 Licence renewed provisionally
1922 Compensation paid, premises closed
THE PASSING OF HULL’S OLDEST HOTEL
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Cross keys in course of Demolition - once the Centre point of All travellers - Court yard Bell dated 1596 - Infirmary House-to-house Appeal - £1,000 raised - New role for former Hull Minister - The Day of Delight - and Dread
I went out of the rain onto a very queer place. It was evidently a huge room, but how huge was difficult to tell because there was only the light of a grey day coming through the door - and the place was full of thick and acrid smoke. In the fireplace and squandering out over the hearth was a great fire of burning wood, its glow muted the smoke. Dante might have imagined this . . . . . . .
Far in the dark recesses of the room, I found a voice and a vague shape - a man lighting another fire. “Is this,” I said, with a natural hesitation, “the Cross Keys Hotel?” There was a chuckle in the gloom. “It was,” said the Voice.
For we were present at the passing of Hull’s oldest inn, a place of which the story goes back and back to the days when the rich and great ones set their crested shields against the doors of their guest houses, when the Archbishop of York set the symbol of St. Peter - the Cross Keys - here in Hull. After all these centuries the inn is being pulled down. What was once a great coaching house is now being cleared to make room for a garage. Other times, other modes . . . . . .
They Found Another Staircase!
No great house ever went more sadly to its end. Mr. Charles Cook, whose men are doing this “job” guided me round. Even now it is possible to imagine the past greatness of the Cross Keys. The immensity of the place . . . . There are staircases everywhere with thick wooden banisters with the twists and undecided direction which our forefathers loved in a staircase. The demolishers have lost themselves in this place. While I was there they found another staircase they hadn’t noticed before . . . . . .
Ten years of neglect and the beginnings of actual demolition had made a battlefield house of the Cross Keys. The wooden staircases were deep under dust and plaster and pieces of brick. Men were rending doors off. So far they had found 39 bedrooms and 15 sitting-rooms. It was to these rooms that the county families and the great merchants came when they visited Hull.
THE Cross Keys of the early 19th century was to Hull what the Savoy is to London. Up under the roof I found low-ceilinged rooms where the servants slept. I could almost hear the whispers “My mistress said this . . . . my master said that . . . .” Shades of Yellow plush. “Can’t go along there,” said my guide. “It isn’t safe.”
Stables For 40 Horses
Down, in the great kitchen we found the bell-signal board still up, inviting calls for “Boots” and “Chambermaid” from rooms now empty and so sadly derelict. Names of heroes were set against the sitting-rooms - Wellington, Nelson, Raleigh . . . . . .
Outside there was still the great court-yard where the coaches came from the highways of the north. There were the great branches of decorated ironwork from which the oil lamps swung when the steaming horses clattered in on a winter’s night, the muffled passengers calling for brandy from the pert waiting-maid, the ostlers hurrying over jangling harness, the board face of the coachman glowing. Shades of Pickwick and the Wellers. Here were stables for 40 horses.
And here at the back was one of those lovely bow-windows, and a door next to it announcing a savings bank. It was here the farmers left their money after market-day. And up in the pan tiled roof were dormer windows, still with their small lead panes.
The origins of the Cross Keys are vague. There is a bell which used to hang in the court-yard and which bears the date 1596. [ My emphasis RGH 2006 ]
But it is known to have been an important place in the life of the town. In the days when politics were politics (if you see what I mean) it was the headquarters of the Whig party. Shades of Eatanswill . . . . Those were the days when the burgesses went to poll on the hustings and were handsomely bribed for doing so . . . . .
All that colour and glory has gone.
But the Cross keys Inn is razed, there will still be ghosts in the Market-place - poor, houseless things now, waiting in vain for the Darlington stage, or the Archbishop who left his crest against the door.
I will close with the epitaph contained in the “Mail” article of February 1910, which quoted from Lord Tennyson’s “In Memoriam”:-
“Our little systems have their day,
They have their day and cease to be”
Consulted Sources
Humber Archaeology Partnership
Paul Gibson
Hull City Museums
Hull City Archives
Hull City Local Studies Library
YORK COURANT LOCAL STUDIES LIBRARY
HULL ADVERISER LOCAL STUDIES LIBRARY
MODERN HULL PIKE c1893
HULL COINAGE C.E. FEWSTER
The History of Hull (1866) by James Joseph Sheahan
Tickell’s HISTORY OF HULL
http://en.wikipedia.org
Richard Hayton © 1996 and 2006/7
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